Seventeen years ago, Calvin Trillin embarked on a barbecue-themed road trip through central Texas with editors from Texas Monthly in tow. Their mission: to uncover the best barbecue joints in the Lone Star State. The journey led them to Snow’s in Lexington, where Miss Tootsie, a seventy-three-year-old pitmaster, presided over the prized brisket. Fast forward to today, and the Texas barbecue landscape is undergoing a seismic shift.
Tradition vs. Innovation: The Changing Face of Texas BBQ
While Snow’s still draws eager crowds on Saturdays, the once-pervasive notion that rural, long-standing establishments hold the key to top-notch barbecue is fading. The rise of “craft barbecue,” a movement emphasizing quality meats, artisanal sides, and culinary precision, is reshaping the industry. Daniel Vaughn, Texas Monthly’s barbecue editor, notes that “big-city barbecue” thrives in urban hubs with a clientele willing to pay a premium for elevated dining experiences.
Craft barbecue has redefined Texas’s culinary landscape, challenging traditional norms and elevating humble fare to gourmet status. The fusion of high-quality ingredients, meticulous preparation, and innovative techniques has catapulted barbecue into the realm of fine dining, blurring the line between roadside shack and upscale bistro.
A Family Feud, A Culinary Revolution
In the heart of Lockhart, Texas’s official barbecue capital, a bitter family feud underscores the clash between tradition and progress. Black’s Barbecue, a storied establishment founded in the throes of the Great Depression, stands as a bastion of bygone eras, evoking nostalgia for simpler times. Meanwhile, Terry Black’s Barbecue, helmed by a new generation of Black descendants, embraces the ethos of craft barbecue, ushering in a new era of smoked meats and culinary innovation.
The rift between the two branches of the Black family symbolizes the broader tension within the barbecue community: a struggle between honoring heritage and embracing change. As the twins behind Terry Black’s expand their footprint, opening locations across Texas, the specter of a family divided looms large, underscoring the emotional stakes of culinary evolution.
As the Texas Monthly gears up to unveil its latest list of top barbecue joints, the industry braces for scrutiny and celebration. For Daniel Vaughn, the arbiter of Texas’s barbecue renaissance, each bite holds the weight of tradition, innovation, and identity. The quest for the perfect brisket is not just a culinary pursuit—it’s a journey through Texas’s rich history, evolving tastes, and enduring legacy.
In a world where brisket commands forty dollars a pound and barbecue joints vie for a coveted spot on the Texas Monthly list, the soul of Texas barbecue endures. Whether savoring a smoky rib at a roadside shack or indulging in a gastronomic feast at a craft barbecue hotspot, diners across Texas are united by a love for the art of barbecue, a celebration of tradition, and a taste of history on a paper-lined tray.
